underwater camera 50m image
Cameron
Im Going o Hawaii next year and im going scuba diving when im there. I want to catch that on film, but i want one for cheap.
Answer
The problem with cheap is that you get what you pay for.
The cheapest 'dive' housing is little more than a ziplock bag, rated to 5m and completely pointless for diving.
If you already have a semi decent digital camera than you can probably get a housing for it. You can get 'proper' dive housings for most well known brands of digital camera, cannon, nikon, fuji, sony etc. They replicate all of the functions and are usually rated to between 10m and 50m with some rated to 100m. The deeper rated camera's generally have single or dual o-ring protection and are worth the extra over a non o-ring variety. Expect to pay as much if not more for the housing than you did for the camera.
Any depth rating is a static rating, i.e. it is a measure of just the depth that the camera can be taken to and expect to survive without flooding. But if you accidentally knock the housing against something then you can easily exceed the rating and cause it to flood. This is why they tell you to never jump in while holding your camera and to always get someone to hand it to you.
The problem with cheap is that you get what you pay for.
The cheapest 'dive' housing is little more than a ziplock bag, rated to 5m and completely pointless for diving.
If you already have a semi decent digital camera than you can probably get a housing for it. You can get 'proper' dive housings for most well known brands of digital camera, cannon, nikon, fuji, sony etc. They replicate all of the functions and are usually rated to between 10m and 50m with some rated to 100m. The deeper rated camera's generally have single or dual o-ring protection and are worth the extra over a non o-ring variety. Expect to pay as much if not more for the housing than you did for the camera.
Any depth rating is a static rating, i.e. it is a measure of just the depth that the camera can be taken to and expect to survive without flooding. But if you accidentally knock the housing against something then you can easily exceed the rating and cause it to flood. This is why they tell you to never jump in while holding your camera and to always get someone to hand it to you.
Sea life camera - differences between reef master and DC1400?
I am thinking of getting a sea life camera but I dont't know which ones to get.
I do about 50 dives a year, depth rated up to around 50m (164 feet) and I want to take some decent pictures of sea creatures and scuba divers using a camera within a budget.
I am thinking of getting either the DC1400 or the ReefMaster.
Which one is better? (Takes better quality pictures)
What are their pros and cons?
Are the digital pro flash necessary?
Answer
If those are the only two you're looking at, I'd go with the DC1400, since you can exert more control over it (much greater variety of presets/manual options), which means it will be a much more flexible system in the long run.
As regards picture quality, the DC1400 also has better picture resolution (14 MP vs. 9 MP for the Reefmaster). That means that you could print your photos at a proportionately larger size than you could with the Reefmaster. Remember, you can always reduce the detail/resolution of a higher-res image (e.g. to reduce filesize for uploading to a social networking site), but there's nothing you can realistically do to improve the detail level of a lower-res image.
And the DC1400 is a housed system, whereas the Reefmaster is 'amphibious'. If (or rather, when!) the DC1400 housing floods, you'd only have to replace the digital compact camera inside, but if the Reefmaster floods, the whole unit is toast.
Finally, whichever model you go for, if you want to take well-lit, large-subject, wide-angle pictures, then yes, an external, angled strobe is definitely recommended. Taking pictures using only the small onboard flash will light up particulates in the water ('backscatter'), and, for any given range, may also result in subjects being much more 'blued-out' than with a strobe.
(That said, regardless of lighting system, you should ideally never be more than 2 m from any underwater subject you want to photograph in colour, since the light from the flash has to travel twice that distance, i.e. 4 m, which is enough to scatter a lot of the 'red' wavelengths).
If those are the only two you're looking at, I'd go with the DC1400, since you can exert more control over it (much greater variety of presets/manual options), which means it will be a much more flexible system in the long run.
As regards picture quality, the DC1400 also has better picture resolution (14 MP vs. 9 MP for the Reefmaster). That means that you could print your photos at a proportionately larger size than you could with the Reefmaster. Remember, you can always reduce the detail/resolution of a higher-res image (e.g. to reduce filesize for uploading to a social networking site), but there's nothing you can realistically do to improve the detail level of a lower-res image.
And the DC1400 is a housed system, whereas the Reefmaster is 'amphibious'. If (or rather, when!) the DC1400 housing floods, you'd only have to replace the digital compact camera inside, but if the Reefmaster floods, the whole unit is toast.
Finally, whichever model you go for, if you want to take well-lit, large-subject, wide-angle pictures, then yes, an external, angled strobe is definitely recommended. Taking pictures using only the small onboard flash will light up particulates in the water ('backscatter'), and, for any given range, may also result in subjects being much more 'blued-out' than with a strobe.
(That said, regardless of lighting system, you should ideally never be more than 2 m from any underwater subject you want to photograph in colour, since the light from the flash has to travel twice that distance, i.e. 4 m, which is enough to scatter a lot of the 'red' wavelengths).
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Title Post: What is the BEST underwater camera for Real scuba diving for a pretty cheap price?
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