best underwater camera low cost image
Henkyo
A Camera can take pictures underwater and out of water? (With good quality without an blurriness)
A Camera can take pictures of fish and sea mammals under water behind a clear glass window at an aquarium? (With good quality without any blurriness of the movements and flash reflection on the glass)
A Camera can take pictures of anything with fast movements with better quality? (without blurriness of the movements) Like birds flying or mammals shaking all the water off of them.
A Camera can take pictures of anything at night or in the dark with better quality?
If you know what types of cameras that can do these things, please tell me.
@John - I see your point. Thank you for your time, John.
Then..... Why do some of the photos that I've seen have better quality even underwater, at night, and fast movements?
Should I show some examples?
Answer
For underwater photography there are waterproof cameras. There are also underwater housings available for many cameras. Generally you pay a price in money for the quality or quality for the money to be waterproof. It is best to use a wrist strap with some floatation when using an underwater camera.
The best digital camera that is immersible without an additional housing is currently the Nikon AW1, about $800 with waterproof 11-27.5mm kit lens. $1000 for a kit that includes the 11-27.5mm plus the waterproof 10mm f2.8. Currently this camera seems to be backordered everywhere.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1006603-REG/nikon_27667_nikon_1_aw1_with.html
To get pictures through a window, you want to avoid flash. You want to find a clean spot on the window. It helps to bring the lens as close to the window as possible to minimize reflections. It can help if the camera is black rather than bright colors to minimize reflections. It can help if the lens has filter threads to accept attachments. A screw in, soft rubber lens hood can be helpful pressed against the window to decrease reflections.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/21870-REG/Heliopan_701540_40_5mm_Rubber_Lens_Hood.html
For low light a bigger sensor helps. The Nikon AW1 has a 1" sensor that is significantly larger than the 1/2.3" sensors of the compact underwater cameras. Wider aperture can help you in low light. If you are getting a Nikon AW1, that 10mm f2.8 can be worthwhile to get.
A possible disadvantage to an underwater camera is that being sealed up watertight, moisture from ambient air is trapped inside. Go from a moist warm environment when closing it up, to a cooler environment, and condensation may form. You may need to open the camera and give it a treatment in a bag with silica gel packs to dry it in advance of use.
Non-waterproof cameras in underwater housings solve this by having room in the housing for silica gel packs to prevent fogging underwater.
Never use rice as a drying agent. Its effectiveness is poor, and it risks getting particles into things.
For low light, if the 1" sensor of the AW1 is good, the even larger sensor of a DSLR can be better. However, to use a DSLR underwater you need a housing, and good DSLR housings cost over $1000.
The Nikon AW1 is water-resistant enough for snorkeling, but not enough for SCUBA diving.
Even with a large sensor and a wide aperture, night shots will still require a tripod.
For pictures of animals it helps to use longer focal lengths. The Nikon AW1 is compatible with the non-waterproof Nikon 1 series of lenses. (Don't use a non-waterproof lens underwater.) The selection is limited. The most powerful telephoto is the 30-110mm.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/823602-REG/Nikon_3312_VR_30_110mm_f_3_8_5_6_Lens.html
Because of the smaller sensor, the angular field of a 110mm lens on the Nikon 1 is the same as a 200mm lens on an APS-C DSLR. You can use even longer DSLR lenses on the Nikon 1 with adapters, but it gets cumbersome. A DSLR gives you more potential power, although see above issue on underwater use.
The Nikon AW1, even with its Nikon 1 30-110mm lens can work well enough with a good light travel tripod like the MeFOTO RoadTrip or the Manfrotto Befree. However, more front heavy lenses may require a heftier tripod head to work well with.
For underwater photography there are waterproof cameras. There are also underwater housings available for many cameras. Generally you pay a price in money for the quality or quality for the money to be waterproof. It is best to use a wrist strap with some floatation when using an underwater camera.
The best digital camera that is immersible without an additional housing is currently the Nikon AW1, about $800 with waterproof 11-27.5mm kit lens. $1000 for a kit that includes the 11-27.5mm plus the waterproof 10mm f2.8. Currently this camera seems to be backordered everywhere.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1006603-REG/nikon_27667_nikon_1_aw1_with.html
To get pictures through a window, you want to avoid flash. You want to find a clean spot on the window. It helps to bring the lens as close to the window as possible to minimize reflections. It can help if the camera is black rather than bright colors to minimize reflections. It can help if the lens has filter threads to accept attachments. A screw in, soft rubber lens hood can be helpful pressed against the window to decrease reflections.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/21870-REG/Heliopan_701540_40_5mm_Rubber_Lens_Hood.html
For low light a bigger sensor helps. The Nikon AW1 has a 1" sensor that is significantly larger than the 1/2.3" sensors of the compact underwater cameras. Wider aperture can help you in low light. If you are getting a Nikon AW1, that 10mm f2.8 can be worthwhile to get.
A possible disadvantage to an underwater camera is that being sealed up watertight, moisture from ambient air is trapped inside. Go from a moist warm environment when closing it up, to a cooler environment, and condensation may form. You may need to open the camera and give it a treatment in a bag with silica gel packs to dry it in advance of use.
Non-waterproof cameras in underwater housings solve this by having room in the housing for silica gel packs to prevent fogging underwater.
Never use rice as a drying agent. Its effectiveness is poor, and it risks getting particles into things.
For low light, if the 1" sensor of the AW1 is good, the even larger sensor of a DSLR can be better. However, to use a DSLR underwater you need a housing, and good DSLR housings cost over $1000.
The Nikon AW1 is water-resistant enough for snorkeling, but not enough for SCUBA diving.
Even with a large sensor and a wide aperture, night shots will still require a tripod.
For pictures of animals it helps to use longer focal lengths. The Nikon AW1 is compatible with the non-waterproof Nikon 1 series of lenses. (Don't use a non-waterproof lens underwater.) The selection is limited. The most powerful telephoto is the 30-110mm.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/823602-REG/Nikon_3312_VR_30_110mm_f_3_8_5_6_Lens.html
Because of the smaller sensor, the angular field of a 110mm lens on the Nikon 1 is the same as a 200mm lens on an APS-C DSLR. You can use even longer DSLR lenses on the Nikon 1 with adapters, but it gets cumbersome. A DSLR gives you more potential power, although see above issue on underwater use.
The Nikon AW1, even with its Nikon 1 30-110mm lens can work well enough with a good light travel tripod like the MeFOTO RoadTrip or the Manfrotto Befree. However, more front heavy lenses may require a heftier tripod head to work well with.
Do underwater housings for digital cameras work? Is it worth it?
Lindsey
I'm thinking about buying an underwater housing for my Nikon digital camera. It's a pretty expensive camera and I want to know if taking it underwater with a housing for it has any chance of damaging the camera. Where is the best place to buy a good housing? Has anyone had a bad experience with an underwater housing? I really want to take my camera scuba diving but i don't want to risk ruining the camera.
Answer
I have both compact and DSLR underwater housings. I have my Nikon D100 in a Sea & Sea housing, with a compact flat port & extension ring. I also have a Sea Sea YS110a strobe. You will need additional strobe(s) underwater.
I've never had a flood, but I know people who have flooded their housings, but its almost always down to user error. It's rare for a housing to flood otherwise. Housings are manufactured for a particular model of camera & are not cheap. Mine cost nearly £2000 when new! that doesn't include ports. You need different ports depending on what lenses you mount - a flat port for macro and a dome port for wide angle lenses. As I mentioned you'll also need a strobe & strobe arm. Total cost around £4,000-5,000. That DOESN'T include the camera & lenses btw.
Most common cause of flooding is not taking care of the O rings. The slightest bit of sand, grit, hair or any nicks, cuts in the O ring can cause a leak. Before every dive session you need to remove & inspect the O rings, clean the O ring channels, grease & correctly seat the O rings back. There are O rings on the main camera body, the ports, the strobe & the sync cord connectors.
Post dive always rinse the housing well in fresh water for a good long time before you open it - a short dunk isn't sufficient. Make sure when you open it that you don't drip water into it or onto the electrical contacts.
If the camera floods during a dive DON'T make a dash to the surface - you risk a bend and its probably too late in any case. If you spot a small leak, point the camera lens down (this will keep the water in the bottom of the port where it'll do least damage) and do a safe ascent.
If you're worried about your DSLR getting wet then I suggest getting a compact & housing package - they'll do reasonable shots provided there's enough light (they don't perform well in low light) although the shutter lag will be more than a DSLR.
Edit: If you're in the UK, Cameras Underwater are good dealers;
http://www.camerasunderwater.co.uk/
I have both compact and DSLR underwater housings. I have my Nikon D100 in a Sea & Sea housing, with a compact flat port & extension ring. I also have a Sea Sea YS110a strobe. You will need additional strobe(s) underwater.
I've never had a flood, but I know people who have flooded their housings, but its almost always down to user error. It's rare for a housing to flood otherwise. Housings are manufactured for a particular model of camera & are not cheap. Mine cost nearly £2000 when new! that doesn't include ports. You need different ports depending on what lenses you mount - a flat port for macro and a dome port for wide angle lenses. As I mentioned you'll also need a strobe & strobe arm. Total cost around £4,000-5,000. That DOESN'T include the camera & lenses btw.
Most common cause of flooding is not taking care of the O rings. The slightest bit of sand, grit, hair or any nicks, cuts in the O ring can cause a leak. Before every dive session you need to remove & inspect the O rings, clean the O ring channels, grease & correctly seat the O rings back. There are O rings on the main camera body, the ports, the strobe & the sync cord connectors.
Post dive always rinse the housing well in fresh water for a good long time before you open it - a short dunk isn't sufficient. Make sure when you open it that you don't drip water into it or onto the electrical contacts.
If the camera floods during a dive DON'T make a dash to the surface - you risk a bend and its probably too late in any case. If you spot a small leak, point the camera lens down (this will keep the water in the bottom of the port where it'll do least damage) and do a safe ascent.
If you're worried about your DSLR getting wet then I suggest getting a compact & housing package - they'll do reasonable shots provided there's enough light (they don't perform well in low light) although the shutter lag will be more than a DSLR.
Edit: If you're in the UK, Cameras Underwater are good dealers;
http://www.camerasunderwater.co.uk/
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